This is a blog about climbing at Haukkakallio near Ruotsinpyhtää. It's basically the simplest way I could think of that I could share this info with other climbers. I hope it helps.

20060623

Sector 2 - The big block sector

This area is easily identified by the huge, 20 mtr high block that has broken away and now stands seperate from the main cliff face. The narrow cleft with a chockstone overhead leads to the gap between the main face and the block. The chimney and chockstone are visible in this picture and form the start of the following route:

1) Auf Wiedersehen Ecuador 5 (HVS 5a)
Chimney up and onto the chockstone, then climb the fine, steep crack above to the top of cliff and a lower-off (a not very good pic to the right shows Toby on the first ascent).

The diagonal crack visible in this photo to the right of the chimney will be bolted to provide another sports route - no details yet on its grade but it looks good.

2 Comments:

Anonymous Anonymous said...

I am sorry but the crack should not be bolted. It is a perfect Trad line. Even is the rock is a tad crumbly it is unlikely that the whole face is rubbish, i.e. the rock will only crumble to a certain point and then remain solid.

Jody

12:20 pm

 
Anonymous Anonymous said...

Hi, Could you add my new route? I have decided to call it Fortress Corner grade 5+ (HVS 5b), pro2.

Cheers,

Jody

1:55 pm

 

Post a Comment

<< Home