Sector 6 - Sector Sunshine
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A great climb up the clean right-facing corner. The angle eases with height gained (picture on the left - Toni J. climbing).
2) It's the end of the world as we know I wanna climb 5- (VS 4c)
Another good corner climb.
3) Smac & Stun Bals 6/6- (v) (E2 5c)
The thin cracks up the slab to the right of the corner of "It's the end of the world..."
4) Would you love a monster jam? 5 (VS 5a)
The short and obvious wide crack up the slabby wall. The crux move is leaving the ground.
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5) Captain Caveman 4+ (HS 4b)
A few metres right of ...Monster Jam, behind the fallen large tree, is a huge corner-crack formed by the edge of a deep crevice/cave going left into the cliff. The climb follows this corner to a ledge and then takes a shallow crack and groove from the ledge to the top. Oddly physical without actually being hard(photo showing line is to the right).
6) Två Halvor 4+ (HS 4c)
The next corner right of Captain Caveman; a climb of two halves! Climb the corner to a ledge then take the cracks up the clean wall above.
7) The Constant Gardener 4+ (HS 4c)
The corner-line to the left of "Mad Dogs and Englishmen". Plentiful gear and resting positions but some tricky moves between. The crux is topping out (4c).
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8) Mad Dogs and Englishmen 5 (HVS 5a)
The obvious chimney-groove leading to a superb jamming crack. Those who can't (or won't) fist jam may say it's harder but it's not. A couple of biggish cams help but aren't absolutely necessary - good nuts can be placed in the horizontal thin crack just below the top crux crack.
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Tuomo gets stuck in to Mad Dogs...
3 Comments:
Is that big Toni or little Toni?
10:24 pm
Little Toni.
11:12 pm
Very good idea to have this site to pool all the information. The "Smac & Stun" route grade is very open. I didn't onsight it and have done limited routes at 6-/6 (also I have limited experince of the (v) mark) so any suggestions are welcome.
Cheers,
Jody
12:27 am
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