This is a blog about climbing at Haukkakallio near Ruotsinpyhtää. It's basically the simplest way I could think of that I could share this info with other climbers. I hope it helps.

20060623

Sector 6 - Sector Sunshine

Above Toby gets started on "Its's the end of the world..." as Samu belays.

1) Uncle Tony's Testimonial 5- (VS 4c)
A great climb up the clean right-facing corner. The angle eases with height gained (picture on the left - Toni J. climbing).


2) It's the end of the world as we know I wanna climb 5- (VS 4c)
Another good corner climb.

3) Smac & Stun Bals 6/6- (v) (E2 5c)
The thin cracks up the slab to the right of the corner of "It's the end of the world..."

4) Would you love a monster jam? 5 (VS 5a)
The short and obvious wide crack up the slabby wall. The crux move is leaving the ground.
Toni finding out whether he would love a Monster Jam.

5) Captain Caveman 4+ (HS 4b)
A few metres right of ...Monster Jam, behind the fallen large tree, is a huge corner-crack formed by the edge of a deep crevice/cave going left into the cliff. The climb follows this corner to a ledge and then takes a shallow crack and groove from the ledge to the top. Oddly physical without actually being hard(photo showing line is to the right).

6) Två Halvor 4+ (HS 4c)
The next corner right of Captain Caveman; a climb of two halves! Climb the corner to a ledge then take the cracks up the clean wall above.

7) The Constant Gardener 4+ (HS 4c)
The corner-line to the left of "Mad Dogs and Englishmen". Plentiful gear and resting positions but some tricky moves between. The crux is topping out (4c).Toby leading the "Constant Gardener". The crack of Mad Dogs... is visible on the right.

8) Mad Dogs and Englishmen 5 (HVS 5a)
The obvious chimney-groove leading to a superb jamming crack. Those who can't (or won't) fist jam may say it's harder but it's not. A couple of biggish cams help but aren't absolutely necessary - good nuts can be placed in the horizontal thin crack just below the top crux crack.
Tuomo gets stuck in to Mad Dogs...

3 Comments:

Anonymous Anonymous said...

Is that big Toni or little Toni?

10:24 pm

 
Blogger Toby - Northern Light Blog said...

Little Toni.

11:12 pm

 
Anonymous Anonymous said...

Very good idea to have this site to pool all the information. The "Smac & Stun" route grade is very open. I didn't onsight it and have done limited routes at 6-/6 (also I have limited experince of the (v) mark) so any suggestions are welcome.

Cheers,

Jody

12:27 am

 

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